Clare Valley (again)

We're back at the Clare Valley.  $20 will secure you a spot at the Showgrounds for the night, the same as last year during the rodeo. 

Clare is one of those places where you feel instantly relaxed.  It's a place of good home-cooked food, seriously friendly folk, and as much wine as your tastebuds can bear (which, in our case, turns out to be quite a lot).

We returned to Mintaro Wines and purchased a few boxes of their marvellous shiraz and riesling, both of which are to die for.  We also supped at Reilley's restaurant - and ate one of the most succulent slow-roasted pork bellies I've ever had the pleasure of tasting.

Afterwards we visited the pub next door and met a group of young locals celebrating a 21st party on bicycle, who chatted with us about living in nearby Keith, and the prospect of either working (or studying) in the big smoke (Adelaide), or remaining in Keith to farm.  Emma is studying journalism and wants to become world-travelled.  However, her friend is content to drive a grain truck and remain in Keith, which he feels is his true home, and has no desire to seek an alternative.  (Frankly, I see both points of view.)

If you want somewhere quiet and charming to live, consider the Clare Valley.  Stone cottages built in the mid-1800s will set you back less than $300,000 or so, a far cry from Margaret River (which has a similar atmosphere) or any suburb or city that we've come across.

Come for a day; stay for a week

Haslam was established in 1893 as a deep sea port to allow the shipping of supplied of machinery and food to the local settlers, as well as providing transport of local products to other parts of the state.  When road transport took over in the 1960s, this service died out.

haslam had a post office from 1913, but the area is now serviced by a community postal agency, which is open for several hours oer week.

The 1410-ft jetty was oringially built in 1912 to allow ships access to the coast, but is now half that length and is now used only for fishing by locals and visitors to the area.

We came to Haslam in search of somewhere close to water, and free (or almost free) to stay for a night.  We chose it quite by accident.

We came for a day.... and stayed for a week. 

And we can't wait to return next year.  The people are warm and friendly, and there is a real community feel to the place.  Campers who come to stay invariably lengthen their time here.  It is such a small town (only 20 permanent residents), and has no shops other than the community post office; we hope Haslam does not change too much in the future.



Squid for dinner tonight!! (and every night)

Jase plays a game of chess with Miles, who is here from the US on a 13-month journey.

Our caretaker.  Apparently this tractor is the vehicle of choice for garbage collection.

Meet Frank and his big yellow bus.

Finally finished that jigsaw puzzle!!!



Haslam Post Office,  open several hours per weeek!



Meet Zoe, who is owned by Carmen and Klaus, a nice couple we met, and with whom we enjoyed a nightly happy hour during our stay at Haslam.



Haslam jetty at night.  The light you see here attracts the squid to the jetty.



This magnificent sea osprey poses for a few photos for Jase.  Here, the pigeons (who are roosting and nesting under the jetty) are attempting to guard their territory.



These pigeons think they own the jetty!



Tractor for sale.  Interested??

Our camp spot.  Carmen and Klaus are on the left, we are to the right.

Check out the boat ramp!

The Haslam Tennis Courts haven't been used for some time

Oyster farmers head out for the day - the farm is located not far off shore, and forms part of the Streaky Bay Oyster industry.

Frank waits patiently at the oyster shed, hungry, and maybe a little desperate.  "Will they sell me some oysters today??"

Simply, YES!  $6 per dozen, straight of the boat.  "3 dozen, pleeeease!!" says I!

Oh my, straight out of the shell, with a twist of lemon to counter the saltiness.  Heavenly!!!  Really... HEAVENLY!!!!

3 days on a liquid road

Not much out here; a few lizards, a few birds of prey, and so much land you can almost see the curvature of the Earth.

Actually, that's not quite true.  There's heaps out here on the Nullabor.  For once thing, much of the Eyre Hwy runs paraellel to the cliffs of the Great Australian Bight, and the view of the water against a back drop of desert is amazing.  The road can get hot, and so it can give you the feeling of halucinations as the "liquid road" reflects the sky (and clouds) and trucks. 

There are gangs of motorcycles zipping past every so often as well.  It must be 'the thing to do' - to cross the Nullabor Plain on 2 wheels.  And the riders all give you a friendly wave as you pass them. 

There are other types of travellers here too - sometimes a crazy person on a bicycle will come into view... which is actually nothing compared to "Trooper Trek" dude - a storm trooper traversing the Nullabor entirely on foot... and in full constume!!

The landscape itself is everchanging; from vast plains of grey grass to expanses of drought-stricken forests, not to mention the view of an endless green ocean off to your right.

Enough said?  Here's some photos of our journey.

 

Cooking all our vegetables before crossing the border into South Australia

 

Would you believe the road is actually dry?