The Bibbulmun Track - stage #1

The Bibb runs from Kalamunda, east of Perth, to Albany in southern WA.  At 965km, it's an enormous journey to embark by foot, but every year it seems many people, from Australia and abroad, take on the challenge and become "end-to-enders".

Jase and I are not quite so brave.  Between bad backs, bad knees, and love of luxury, the 8-week journey is a little much to ask.  However, we hope to tackle some stages of the Track in increments over the coming weeks, and dare I say it, years.

Here is our tale of a very enjoyable, most rewarding, 2-day walk through jarrah forest, at Section #1 of the Bibbulmun Track.

We pack our 65lt bags, and walk from the Advent Park to our bus stop which will take us into Kalamunda, and the first leg of our journey.  Our bags are carrying food, sleeping bags, mattresses, pillows, a tent, first aid gear, some clothing, water, and stove with billy.  We're not sure, but estimate the bags weigh about 10kg (Jase) and 9kg (Eve), or thereabouts.  Pretty light really, compared to other hikers.



We wait at the bus stop on Kalamunda Rd.

The Northern Terminus of the Bibbulmun Track.  If you stand here looking south, you have done 0 out of 965 km of the Track.  We feel really excited to get going.  We have adjusted our packs and feel great.  Bring it on!



We stop every half hour or so to remove our packs and stretch our shoulders.  I have brought the Guide Book with me, so I can check what landmarks to expect, and how steep the next hill will be!   

This section of the Bibb is quite steep in places, and you must watch your footing to make sure you don;t roll your ankle on a large gumnut or rock.  The track is mostly easy to navigate but occasionally there is a fork in the road.  Look our for waugals (see below); these are nailed to trees along the track and help guide you.

We pass over a brook, and climb some very rocky sections.  The scenery is lovely - you can see Perth & suburbs in the distance.  Kalaumnda National Park is home to Jarrah forest and Blackboys (or Grasstrees), and some wildflowers bloom in the speckled shade.

After about 4km I can feel my feet, but otherwise I feel pretty good.

We stop for lunch - pre-made sandwiches.  Jase is wishing he had a normal seat on which to sit - his lower back is starting to bark.

In the distance we spot a wooden dwelling - our hut (you can see it hidden in the below photo)!!!  We are surprised actually, I thought we had more distance to cover, but we are also relieved to unload our packs finally.



Fantastic - what a beautiful place to camp at!  The only other person here tonight is Chuttan Wang from Taiwan, a lovely girl, who is hoping to endure the entire track over 60 days.  Chuttan Wang apologises profusely all the time, she is polite and demure, but we try to encourage her to relax.  She tells us that it has taken her a couple of days to get this far (it is easy to reach in a few hours) because she has had trouble finding her way, and went around in circles and lost a whole day!

We decide to leave our tent packed up, and opt to set up our beds straight onto the bunks.  The hut is covered on 3 sides but entirely open on one side - and the view it utterly gorgeous, looking down the valley and over tall thin trees.

After a little time reading and relaxing, Jase lights a fire, and we invite Chuttan Wang to cook her dinner with us.

The water takes AGES to boil but it doesn't stop me from watching watching watching.... 

We brought pasta for dinner - but I didn't consider how difficult it would be to cook 375g of pasta in a 1.5lt billy!!!  I eventually crammed the pasta in with a stick - it was a starchy mess by the time it was ready to drain, but we ate it anyway (well, we had no choice!).  Mixed with olives, capsicum, herbs, tomato paste, and salami, it was at least edible! 

The nights are very cold here, at tonight the gets down to 1 degree (yes ONE degree!).  It's cold, I mean, bonechillingly cold.  Our sleeping bags are good, but don't cover our faces, and remember, we are open to the elements without our tent.  Our solution?  I wear a shirt on my face, and Jase simply pulls his beanie all the way over his face!!  (let's just say it needs a good wash!!!)

At dawn, Chuttan Wang packs her bags to leave... all 30kg!  Yep, teddy bear, bags of fresh vegetables, so much stuff.... so much stuff....

The poor girl struggles to even get the pack on her back, and I am sure she will teeter over as soon as she stands straight.  But she is determined, and leaves with a big smile.  We wish her luck and happiness on her journey.

After a big bowl of porridge and a little yoga, we repack our bags, and we're back on the track.

A little time into our walk, we spot something weird in the bush.

Aaah, some sort of corporate challenge.  They weren't shy, and posed very happily for photos!

Our time on the Bibb is over!  My calves feel like they are built out of soccer-shinpads, and I have reached a point where I don't even notice the pack on my back any more.  The soles of my feet are complaining, but my back feels mysteriously good.  We made sure to buy good quality rucksacks, and I am very thankful! 

So.... when are we hiking again?????

Wine, beer and a big pig

The Swan Valley is the Western Australia's oldest wine region.  Its gnarled and twisted grapevines provide beautiful aromatic Verelho, delightful plummy Shiraz and smooth rich Cabernet.  There are also a number of breweries and restaurants in the region, making this a must-see destination for travellers.

We have been here for 2 days.  Yesterday we visited a honeymaker, 3 wineries, and a brewery, and let me assure you, that provides quite enough tastings for this little black duck! 
This morning we woke to howling winds and pouring rain, perfect to head back into the fray. Flocks of Corellas must think this weather is hilariously good fun - they seem to deliberately fly into the wind in massive flocks, as they squawk and holler and somersault and spin and perform other death-defying stunts.

We started our day with food.  Eldmars Breweries has a traditional German restaurant and we positively gorged ourselves on its fare.  We were welcomed warmly, found ourselves a bench to stand at (the entire restaurant was booked out but the adjoining bar has benches & stools).  Jase ordered the tasting tray of beer to get our mouths watering in time for a hearty lunch.

Jase ordered the house special - a large pork shank, pickled then slow roasted, wrapped in its own crackling, and served with potatoes, sauerkraut and mustard.  It was seriously like eating half a pig!  Every mouthful was savoured, and I'd have been extremely jealous of his choice, had I not decided on what my body was begging for after a day of wine: more beer, kransky, mashed potato and a heap of sauerkraut, plus mustard on the side and a gorgeous crisp salad.

More wineries, and also the chocolate factory (just help yourself to handfuls of choc-buds) and cheese tastings.  How good is the Swan Valley?????



Photos of day 1:

A little beer tasting to break up the visits to wineries

Our ride for the day.... yeah right!

Nope, not an insemination tool, but a wine pourer.  This delightful wine must be specifically asked for, and we were lucky enough to try it without paying the usual fee. (by the way, behind Jase is a wedding currently ceremony taking place...)

Photos of day 2:

To start the day, 6 beer tastings brought to our table.... bliss!

Jase orders the pork shank, pickled and slow roasted, covered in crackling.  Actually, did I say 'pork shank'?  It was more like half a pig!!!!!

Eve polishes off the greatest hangover food there is... bangers (well, Kranksys) and mash with sauerkraut, mustard and salad. 

Tonka Truck land

Police escorts can be spotted on the 95 National Highway.  Trucks are pulling over on the side of the highway.  It takes us a moment to work out why.  In the distance we spot something big and yellow.

 These massive semi trailers are hauling tip-truck trays, as wide as the highway and taller than a house.

 Imagine owning your very own Tonka Truck - in super-size!

Life is Large out here!!

The ticking clock

Last night we stayed in a truck stop at the summit of a tall hill; a NOISY truck stop where every truck that comes this way, pulls in to check his breaks/tyres and whatnot (we are 200km north of Perth, and dozens of trucks pulled in during the night). 

But you know what?  Trucks don't bother me, even when they use their exhaust breaks.  Generators bother me.  And, well, a ticking clock bothers me.  We have a nice clock that has to be packed away in the kitchen drawer each night because the subtle ticking keeps me awake (I used to hide the clocks at Mitcham each night for the same reason).  Last night, after a visit to the loo, I could feel the noisy-rumbling-breaking-gear-changing trucks lulling me to sleep.  But if there was a few seconds with no truck, I could sense the ticking clock, *tick tick tick tick*, even though it was packed away in a drawer!!!  Jase is starting to get worried.....

More orchids abound....   sometimes I think it would be best to go bushwalking on hands and knees to see more of these tiny beauties.....

How to catch a fish in 20 seconds

Okay, so this is a little late (it was in Exmouth a few weeks ago), but it has been difficult uploading this clip into Blogger.
Enjoy!!  (yes, it really is THAT EASY)!!!

Pinnacles

We expected blobs on the sand.

But as soon as we arrived, we knew we were in for a treat.

The formations in the Pinnacles Desert are numbered in their hundreds (maybe thousands), and is an other-worldly collection of slender limestone peaks.  It seems there is no one theory on how they exactly formed, but rather 3 reasons are proposed.  Either way, they completely gobsmacked us!

There is a safari-type road that winds its way for 4km in and around the pinnacles, with many parking spots along the way.  Visitors are advised to "walk wherever you like", so you can get up close, touch the rough surface of these limestone sculptures, or stand back to take in the amazing view. 



If you look closely, you can see the road that the sign is referring to



The ocean is right behind

Pinnacle Desert