Thermal Pools - Mataranka

What crocodiles?

This section of the Roper River is “crocodile managed” and was opened to swimmers just a couple of days ago. The water is warm, and is abundant in bait fish resembling gouramis, so there is little chance of catching a barramundi due to the high water levels and abundance of food (and their minimum catching size is a whopping 55cm!!). Three swimming pontoons lie at the water’s edge, and I couldn’t resist blowing up a lilo and having a paddle, while Jase sat in the shade of the many old palm trees. We spotted several small kangaroos approach the shore to drink at dusk – the first roos spotted since leaving South Australia, in fact. And although it’s unlikely we’ll see a saltwater croc here, I was disappointed not to spot a (‘harmless-to-humans’) freshwater crocodile; but we’ll keep our eyes peeled during our stay here.


Dinner tonight is a nice hot lamb curry with buttered rice, all cooked over an open fire; and accompanied by a nice big bottle of red wine; two acoustic guitars; and an immense starry sky.

In the Tropics

Traveller beware: the free-camps are infrequent along this section of the highway, and caravans pack tightly like sardines before mid afternoon, at which point, space runs out. These free-stops resemble small caravan parks perched precariously on the side of the road and the gathering of glittering silver roofs can often be spotted from kilometres away. We insert ourselves into the fray, crack open a beer, and watch with glee the rigs that arrive after us, as they search in vain for the last free spot before being forced to move on. At night, people gather over a bottle of wine, compare travelling stories, and relax before the following day’s drive.

Three days and 1000km later, and we have crossed the Tropic of Capricorn.



Long vines hang from tall thin trees. The land is littered with termite mounds, some as tall as Jase, and coloured to match the soil below. Vast tracts of land are burned black by aboriginals who are in charge of maintaining the land in the old ways, and much of the vegetation seems to return quickly, presumably after the first sign of rain. It is much warmer here, as warm as 30 or so, but there is little humidity so you drink gallons of water to stay hydrated.

Birds that call out “chick me-ow...chick me-ow” are audible at dawn, and in the afternoon we are greeted by flocks of apostle-birds – large carnivorous birds that scamper erratically across the ground with their hefty feet and legs, and communicate with a sound that I best acquaint with small dinosaurs (but which Jase says reminds him of the Wicked Witch’s flying monkeys).

Water rushes constantly in the nearby Roper River, reminding us that we are now in northern Australia and no longer amidst arid desert. Swarms of central Australian field mice have given way to northern Australian toads, which plop along the ground during the night in search of damp ground.

Devil's Marbles

A rock wallaby snoozes by morning light


Cars and vans line the carpark

The view from the rear of our caravan - beautiful isn't it?

Tam and Paulie, for some reason, this section of Devil's Marbles reminds us of you.....

Farewell Glen Helen!

Time to say good bye

Alas, it is time to leave Glen Helen Resort. We were farewelled appropriately with a big party, lots of music, games of pool, and plenty of drinks! Jase and I had arranged a couple of free dinners by barter – we spent half a day collecting, cutting and chopping firewood for Glen Helen’s gorgeous fireplace in exchange for food. So our last meal at Glen Helen was the infamous weekly bbq night – a smorgasbord of meats and salads.

We chop wood in exchange for food

A couple of guests were also invited to join in the festivities – a young couple who kept to themselves but got nicely sloshed, an excitable woman (one only had to look at her chest to know when she was really excited) whom Tom took quite a shining to, and a couple of blokes who Jase and I have befriended, Dave and Jonathan. Dave lives in country Victoria and agrees with our principles of self sufficiency and sustainable living, so we had LOTS to talk about during our evening. Jonathan, from Belgium, lives in his van and is travelling this vast country, hopping from farm to farm to fund his trip. We talked incessantly about Vietnam and agreed to catch up on Friday at Alice Springs’ best known Vietnamese restaurant, to indulge in some authentic Asian cuisine.

We also finally met Michael the Chef’s girlfriend, Cate, who is a lovely, happy, funny lady who we consider to be a great fit for the somewhat mischievous Michael. We are looking forward to catching up with them later in the year at their home near Freemantle in Western Australia.

Our final goodbyes were made on Friday morning. With van hitched up and ready to go, Michael, Cate, Slim the Musician (who we hope to meet again when we do the east coast next year; he lives near Byron Bay), Slim’s daughter Grace, Meggy, Rachael, and the rest of the gang farewelled us, with some exchange of contact details, and lots of hugs and kisses. Ashleigh even gave us a lovely farewell gift – a night’s accommodation at the Alice Springs Casino Hotel, which we took with great thanks and appreciation (PS it was soooo good to run a bath by candlelight!!). Dean had arranged for Jase to drive him and his car into Alice with him (so he could collect his drivers licence), so I had the pleasure of towing the caravan for the first time, all the way to town 130km away!

Gosse Bluff photos

Six minutes in a helicopter

Ryan took us on a fantastic flight today, right before sunset. For $55 each, you too can experience awesome views of Glen Helen Gorge and Resort, the Organ Pipes, Mt Sonder, the Finke River and Ormiston Gorge. It’s mind blowing! There are NO windows or doors on the side of the chopper, so the wind whips around you with great ferocity, and it is easy to absorb the expansive views; just breathe it in and scream with delight!!!

TWO SHORT VIDEOS: