On our way to Coober, we stop at the Breakaways, which is a sweeping valley of canyons and mountains. Ordinarily the Breakaways is russet and gold. Today, its palette includes silver and green.
During one of our stops, we detect a familiar sound, ‘peep peep peep’.......... hundreds of zebra finches! There are also budgerigars that fly in small flocks, but are elusive as they dart and swoop with immense speed and dexterity.
When you enter the mining precinct of Coober Pedy, you are greeted by pyramids of pale dust and sand, piled conically across the desert. These are the first signs of opal prospecting, and stretch for hundreds of kilometres.
Welcome to Coober Pedy! This is a familiar sight in town – pastel sandstone harbouring dwellings drilled into the sides of hills. This is how most people here live; like moles underground, away from the heat and sun.
The main street of Coober is as sparse as its surrounds. There are a handful of opal shops, attempting to entice tourists to buy opals and opal jewellery (and they sell mostly tat, so no souvenirs for our loved ones, sorry!). The locals here are a mix of settlers who caught the opal bug while visiting and prospecting (and never left), and aboriginals. The place feels a bit gloomy and desperate; peddlers are looking for the tourist dollar but haven’t quite worked out how to obtain it, the supermarket is largely bare, the streets are quiet and grimy.
Eve on the set of Empire Strikes Back.
The Old Timers Mine holds tours and we found it irresistible to have a go using this blower, which the miners use to suck loose dirt and debris from the mines and bring it swiftly to the surface. Think of a massive vacuum cleaner and you’ve got it. Our tour guide told us of a story where one of his patrons accidently got her handbag in the way of the chute and it sucked it straight up. She was able to keep hold of it by the straps, however, and screamed for the guide to please turn of the machine before it pulled her bag from her grasp. Later, he told her that her bag contained cash and her passport (this would have been shredded once it reached the mechanism at the top of the chute)! As the guide said, at the time it could have been a disaster; now it’s a funny story.
This machine is used to dig away the sides and roofs of the tunnels, and is also used to burrow and make people’s homes. Pretty cheap way to build your house!
Down in one of the mines, we are able to wander through to see what the conditions were like for the miners, and what their homes were (and are) like. It’s a tough life – in most places you cannot stand straight, and of course, homes have few or no windows, just a chute or chimney to let in fresh air from outside.
A large natural seam of priceless opal has been retained in its original location, so tourists can view its splendour, and so locals can drool over what might have been.
The Catholic Church in Coober Pedy is completely underground. Its sandstone walls have been varnished to help reduce dust.
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